Inside the Artist Studio Featuring Jeweler Emanuela Aureli
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Born in Italy and trained at the California College of Arts Emanuela Aureli's jewelry reflects her
constant fascination with bold minimal shapes in an exploration in metal and color. She works
in sterling silver, copper and occasionally gold; and all of her pieces have a scratch-matte finish,
underlining the simplicity of a form. Varieties of patinas are used to convey a sense of warmth
and to invite the wearer to the touch.
What prompted you to become a jeweler and specifically specializing in hollow form
earrings?
I started making earrings with brass wire, beads and colored feathers while growing up in
Germany/Munich at age 15 in the mid 70's. I always enjoyed working with my hands and soon I
was selling my jewelry at flea markets, open-air festivals and concerts. I would sell a pair of
earrings and I would usually sell out. With the money earned, I would buy more supplies, but
also pay my books and music/concerts interests and paying for summer trips to Spain, Greece
and various excursions throughout Europe. Later I moved back to Italy looking for a
goldsmithing apprenticeship, where I worked with lost wax castings, opened my first studio in
the heart of Rome in the early 80s and started participating in many craft shows there and in
Germany. Combining jewelry traditions from Italy and northern Europe I soon became intrigued
with working directly with metal and started building pieces out of sterling silver, copper and
brass sheet metal; simple forms and minimal aesthetics have always been at the forefront of
my work.
What teacher inspired you the most and why?
I have had many teachers, especially the artists and artisans I met on the streets of Italy and
Europe. I devoured all I could on the subject, read many books, and became fascinated with
Benvenuto Cellini an Italian renaissance artist, craftsman, and author of books and technical
treatises; I read his autobiography (La Vita) and was very much taken by the whole process and
experience. After moving to Oakland California in the late 80s I found a good mentor in Martin
Streich, head of the metal jewelry department at the California College of Arts and Crafts
(formerly CCAC, now CCA/California College of the Arts), where I earned my BFA in
jewelry/video and sculpture. In 1997, Marty challenged me to work exclusively in jewelry. I was
accepted in the MFA program, but I realized after a year that I just wanted to make jewelry and
dedicated all of my time to building my studio and jewelry business.
Which one of your pieces do you have a special affection for and why?
I like making rings, big rings, pieces that move and make noise when the body moves...those
are my one of a kind pieces and I have sold most of my unique rings to some very loyal
customers over the 4 years.
What do you plan for your future work and what led you in this direction?
I plan to experiment with non-metal materials, I have A LOT of work in progress in that direction,
and some pieces have been on my bench for quite a few years. They include shapes
constructed out of thin cardboard and collaged with black and white and colored magazine and
newspaper. I am also experimenting with less geometric forms, trying to introduce some more
'rounded' elements and taking a break from the strictly geometrical; I will be always intrigued by
different patinas that one can achieve on metal with heat (especially on copper), which has
somewhat become a signature of my work.
What shows do you have planned for 2010?
I have a few shows in 2010. I have been invited to show in Germany at the Messe
Frankfurt/Ambiente show and at the Italian Macef held in Milan Italy every winter
(http://www.macef.biz/en/)...will see. Although I will be taking a break from the American Craft
Council shows, of course I plan to keep up my presence at some of the other prestigious
US-based events. I have been exhibiting for years, in venues such as the Bellevue Arts Fair in
Bellevue WA and Craft Boston. I am concentrating on my next show, the craft Boston holiday
2009 edition for next December in Boston/MA (see link above)